About Dam(n) Time

Restoring vital salmon habitat on the Elwha River in Olympic National Park, Washington.

On September 17, I had the privilege of celebrating what will be the largest dam removal and ecosystem restoration project in North America.  After 100 years, the Elwha and Glines Canyon dams will be removed, the Elwha River will be set free and salmon will once again begin their instinctual journey to spawn up the river and its tributaries.

The Elwha dam about to be dismantled, setting loose the Elwha River and reconnecting salmon habitat.

I first worked on this issue in the late 1980s when I worked for the US Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS). Though it seemed like a longshot at the time, back then we dreamed about dam removal as an option to restore salmon runs. The Field Office Supervisor Dave Frederick and his passionate, dedicated staff pushed the issue. Then in 1992, the unthinkable happened. As a result of the persistence and political savvy of so many–federal and state government agencies, the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe and the environmental community–as well as the championing by Congressional leaders such as Congressman Norm Dicks and then Senator Bill Bradley, the Elwha River Ecosystem and Fisheries Restoration Bill was passed. This set in motion the long process of dam removal that finally began on September 17, 2011.

As I arrived at the Elwha Dam site, I was welcomed by a series of works of art adorning the arches of the walkway.  The art expressed the importance and different values of the river to many different people, and there were several scientists and park employees there to explain the restoration project and the history behind the effort.

As I made my way across the walkway, I stopped and looked down at the foot of the dam where 73 salmon (someone counted) were swimming, headed upstream as they had done for ages—blocked for 100 years by this tall concrete dam and another further upstream, waiting…..waiting… waiting patiently for the dam to come down.

The work of local artists on display across the top of the dam celebrate the areas rich culture and history.

The ceremony was inspiring and, at a time when it seems that no one cares about protecting wildlife and that conservation is a fight and an uphill climb, I realized that this was the right thing to do for future generations. It was also a good reminder that persistence pays off.

The ceremony began with the approach of the Tribe singing and drumming and paying tribute to the river.  The actor Tom Skerritt (perhaps best known as “Viper” from Top Gun) was the master of ceremonies and introduced a host of dignitaries, including Department of the Interior Secretary Ken Salazar, Park Service Director Jon Jarvis, Bureau of Reclamation Commissioner Mike Connor, Interior Assistant Secretary for Indian Affairs Larry Echo Hawk, Representative Norm Dicks,  Senator Patty Murray, Senator Maria Cantwell, Lower Elwha Klallam Tribal Chairwoman Frances Charles and Governor Chris Gregoire, who all gave their personal testimony to the importance of the event.  Even former Senator Bill Bradley was there.  Throughout the day, everyone from scientists to lawyers to activists had their own story to tell about their role, how hard a fight it had been and how energized and inspired they felt on this important day.

A view of the river, soon to return to its natural state.

The ceremony ended when Secretary Salazar gave the cue to fire up a bulldozer with a gold-plated bucket, which began breaking up the old cofferdam holding back the water.  The crowd cheered and the elders of the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe stood to watch the beginning of what is not only an ecological restoration but a cultural one for them.

The restoration will begin in stages and will be completed in 2013.  Spawning habitat for five salmon species will be restored to 70 miles of river and tributaries, three quarters of which is pristine watershed within Olympic National Park.  Truly an ecosystem restoration, the project will also benefit bears, eagles, elk, river otters and a myriad of other species.

I plan to return every year with my former colleagues to watch the progress of this ambitious project and marvel at the salmon making their journey up an unimpeded watershed.